From the grotesque masks and hoods of the spontaneous carnival in Nadur to the fast rhythms of the ancient Kumittiva dance in Xaghra, Carnival in Gozo is an irrepressible feast for the senses.
Nadur’s spontaneous carnival is well known by now – when night falls, armies of masked and hooded locals rush out into the main street, wearing grotesque and imaginative costumes put together from old clothes and items accumulated at home. The results are often hilarious and directly inspired by current issues or everyday struggles.
Themes at the carnival are mainly influenced by four distinct areas – local affairs in Nadur, regional matters concerning Gozo, political events, and international news. Alongside these, everyday situations also inspire the costumes. Ugly old men and bent women stooping low are a staple, while large floats representing entire scenes – such as weddings, childbirth, operating theatres, or even entire farms – make their way down the street. This uninhibited, topsy-turvy world of imagination, laughter, and sensuality bursting onto the streets embodies the true spirit of Carnival: a protest against the ethic of discipline and work that rules most other days of the year.
No rules apply – the only restrictions being the use of animals and religious robes. Political satire thrives, making for some hilarious and clever costumes. It is a time when people can express themselves in various ways about the realities of political and social life, all while hiding behind a mask. The wearer of the mask – the maskarat – is the king of the day, in control of the audience. Meanwhile, groups of daqqaqa play traditional instruments such as the tanbur, rabbaba, and trepied inside the bars.
When the organised carnival – with band marches and competitions – was initially introduced, it was met with alarm. However, today, the two carnivals co-exist peacefully, with the organised Carnival enjoying its own share of hilarity and games, ending with the traditional kukkanja. Close to the village of Nadur, another Carnival celebration takes place – not quite as spontaneous but equally rooted in tradition. The Kumittiva is a folk dance that has survived only in Xaghra, with origins lost in the mists of time. Exclusive to Gozo, it is performed during Carnival, as this was historically the only time of year when dancing was permitted for the country folk and lower classes. The Kumittiva is in the blood – an inherited folklore dance passed down from generation to generation.
Organised Carnival celebrations take place in many Gozitan villages, including a full parade of carnival companies, floats, grotesque masks, and village bands along Republic Street in Victoria. The festivities continue with a show of carnival dances, merrymaking groups, and costume competitions in the main enclosure, specially set up in Independence Square.
Carnival in Gozo is a time of unfiltered creativity, vibrant traditions, and an explosion of joyous energy. Whether it’s the spontaneous and satirical spectacle of Nadur, the rhythmic echoes of the ancient Kumittiva in Xaghra, or the grand parades filling Victoria’s streets, each celebration offers a unique glimpse into Gozo’s cultural heritage. For a few days, reality is suspended, and laughter, music, and revelry take centre stage. If you want to experience Carnival in its rawest and most exuberant form, Gozo is the place to be.
